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Canaima
Climax
By Gretchen Belsie
We'd
already lay on the beach, walked the streets of Caracas and
trekked through the Andes by foot and mule, so what possibly
could we do as a grand finale? Order up a couple charter planes,
head for the jungle and try our hand at eco-tourism.
In
many ways, ecotourism resembles an Abroad. It walks the fuzzy
line between entertainment and education, sun and scholarship.
And one is never sure, going into the experience, how it will
turn out. Will the guide bore us or thrill us, point out pictures
of butterflies or fill our stomachs with them in some unforgettable
Kodak moment? We would find out in Canaima.
Our
destination looked exotic enough, like something out of a
James Bond movie. Imagine a green flatland interrupted by
palm trees, wide rivers, thrashing waterfalls and dozens of
table-top mountains swooping 1,000 meters almost straight
up. Look closer and you can see the occasional indigenous
hut, dugout canoe (made from a tree trunk but sporting a Japanese
outboard motor) and an impressive list of fauna with venom,
scales, sharp teeth and claws. More about that later.
Our
home base to observe all this was Jungle Rudy's Camp Ucaima,
an offbeat resort in southeastern Venezuela that counts among
its former guests Robert De Niro, King of Spain Juan Carlos
and Prince Charles. Getting there is half the fun.
After
landing at the makeshift Canaima airport (one all-purpose,
thatched-roof building that houses a tiny snack bar and a
handful of bead vendors), we entered the national park. It's
a huge place, relatively unspoiled and home to Angel Falls,
the tallest waterfall in the world. Once inside the park,
we climbed aboard safari-style Toyota land cruisers for a
15-minute drive on rutted washboard dirt roads, then clambered
into long narrow boats for a 10-minute cruise upriver. The
students were entranced before we even arrived.
Jungle
Rudy's blends the indigenous and European. International flags
representing the homeland of each of us snapped in the breeze
to greet us (United States, France, Germany, but someone had
forgotten to put out the Canadian flag). At the camp mess
hall, an open-air pavilion with thatched roof, our guides
offered us a pleasant fruit drink. It seemed very civilized,
even with the desiccated animal pelts, trapped years ago in
the surrounding bush, decorating the walls. But strange shapes
darting out of the corner of my eye told me we had crossed
over into the wild.
A
baby boar skittered along the front yard, trailing behind
the camp manager who had recently adopted him. An anteater
the size of a basset hound not only checked us out but climbed
up the legs of two female students. Somewhere in the river
lurked a three-foot-long anaconda!
Harmless,
the guide assured us, because it's too small to bite anybody.
But I left the swimming to Laurent just the same.
The
accommodations at Jungle Rudy's were pleasant, though not
mosquito-proof. Outside each stucco and thatched-roof room
hung a hammock for afternoon drowsing, reading or just lizard
watching. Inside, the rooms were spartan and tidy in a European-style
way and the walls were decorated with locally made baskets,
spears or dart guns. Each guest is provided with a candle
-- a necessity for late-night reading because after 10:30
p.m. or so, the camp's generators are shut off until morning
and the visitor is plunged into a darkness broken only by
the magnificent display of stars visible from the outdoor
hammocks. We were off to a good start but would our four-day
finale live up to our expectations?
The
next day in Canaima, we opted for the day-long jaunt to Kavak,
a tiny indigenous community that is the stepping off point
for a grand adventure. To get there, we had to board our chartered
planes again, fly about 40 minutes, land on an unpaved(!)
runway then take off walking in the hot sun. The hike took
us through grassy fields, past a small swollen river that
invited all manner of splashing and rock diving, and on to
the caverns themselves. The best way to describe Kavak is
to call it a narrow and vertical black chasm of rock with
a river flowing through the bottom. Sometimes, the current
is so strong that the adventurer must use ropes attached to
the rock face to pull himself along. The river opens unexpectedly
at the end to reveal a large grotto pierced by sunlight and
one very large crashing waterfall. The swimmer's-eye view
is so spectacular it looks almost unreal. The perspective
spirals upward, leaving one woozy and bedazzled by the color
and the cascade of falling droplets. The group splashed about
for a long time, daring each other with this and that and
releasing all the pent-up emotion of the concluding days in
Merida.
Back
at camp that night, the cook provided us with large family-style
pans of tasty Swiss steak with abundant rice on the side.
Later
on, our guide whispered that the meat really wasn't beef --
it was thinly sliced flank of tapir. I'm still not sure I
believe him, but after that comment, I regarded with some
suspicion the stroganoff served the next night. Of course,
the students seemed not to care. After all, they already had
sampled live termites on arrival to the Camp Ucaima grounds,
courtesy of our guide.
Our
second day in camp, we toured the small community of Canaima
(back by the airport) by foot -- a low-key undertaking that
left us all parched -- and raised again THE question in the
minds of the students: "Are we going to do something cool
today??"
Answer:
a visit to an authentic indigenous community upriver for a
cultural exchange. Our guide led us to Mayupa, a place he
visits when in Canaima to bring clothing for the children
and to pick up and drop off mail. The village, inhabited by
Pemon Indians, was a National Geographic photo spread come
to life. The chief greeted us cordially and presented to us
the children from the two families who live in Mayupa, (un)dressed
for the occasion and sporting loincloths and strands of beads
crisscrossed on their chests. Their faces were decorated with
a watery red paint made from the blossoms of a tree planted
in their yard. The Prin students -- blond, or freckled, or
with cayenne-red hair, and dressed in the latest Abercrombie
and Fitch threads -- had their faces painted too as a sign
of being welcomed into the tribe.
We
toured the few open-air huts, learned about the process of
converting fire ants into an edible hot sauce (delicious when
served on a dried yucca chip!) and had a demonstration by
the chief of the proper use of a blow gun. The students leaped
at the invitation to test out the chief's hand- made weapons,
and later bought as many as they could manage.
As
the sun was beginning to set over the thatched roofs, Laurent
and I unveiled our final food coup of the Abroad: nine packages
of graham crackers, seven bags of marshmallows and about ten
bars of chocolate. Let the s'mores fest begin!
(Director's
note: A gentle word to the s'mores afficionado who ventures
to the South American continent: bring marshmallows with you!
For three weeks in Merida, Laurent and I had pounded the pavement,
scoured candy shops and taken cabs to remote Chinese grocery
stores reputed to stock the obscure jet-puffed confections.
I came close once when I explained to a young stock boy what
I was looking for. "At this point, I'd even take marshmallow
fluff in a jar." "We have that," he assured me, and then led
me to a shelf and pointed proudly to a wildly-overpriced can
of Pillsbury frosting! We finally managed to obtain the crucial
ingredient by begging the charter pilot to find us some in
Caracas and bring them to Canaima. Mission accomplished --
forget the price.)
The
chief and several of the tribesmen had generously carved roasting
sticks for us with machetes and presented them to us. (I learned
later that these were sticks to be re-used for dart guns.)
The
students took over, cramming multiple marshmallows on a stick
and proudly showing the indigenous children how to hold the
toasting wand just so to achieve that illusive golden-brown
skin on the prized marshmallows. Mayupa's youngest citizens
caught right on to the game and even enjoyed the inevitable
flaming stack of sugar blobs. They were delighted with the
s'mores concoctions and ate as many as they could in the time
provided, washing them all down with classic Coca-Cola that
we had brought along in a cooler. It was an unforgettable
moment, though one punctuated with the pricking of conscience
as we offered a banquet of cultural imperialism out in the
Venezuelan bush.
Students
are sometimes hard to read. After our final morning of splashing
in a lake and crossing under a waterfall, I thought they'd
enjoyed the trek. On the flight back to Caracas, one of the
more skeptical Abroaders vouchsafed: "After Canaima, I know
I've got to come back here soon."
Suddenly,
the dozens of mosquito bites didn't matter anymore.
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